Marcia Baïla, Tchikiboum, and the happy disappearance of knickers.

When Emma Reynaud first imagined the Tchikiboum, she doubted anyone would dare wear it without underwear. She even envisioned it as a tunic over trousers. A friend settled the matter, wearing it bare underneath for a night out. She posted the photo on Instagram, and the messages flooded in. The first customer was photographer Harley Weir. As for the dress, it became Marcia's signature. A house named after the Rita Mitsouko's Marcia Baïla could never stay quiet for long.

3 min read

3 min read

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Before Marcia, Emma Reynaud was a ballet dancer, a model, and then a stylist. When she launched her label in 2018, she wanted garments designed to follow the body rather than constrain it. The first Tchikiboum took the concept to its limit: a second-skin dress with cut-outs tracing the hips, creating what Emma describes as a décolleté displaced from the chest. Yet even she was hesitant at first, initially imagining the dress styled over trousers. That is, until one evening when a friend slipped it on with nothing underneath, went out, and posted the look on Instagram.

Orders flooded in. Emma put the piece up for sale and it sold out instantly. Her very first client was Harley Weir—even though, as she recalls, she had expected to sell her first dress to a cousin.

The rest quickly became a cinematic affair with cool girls: Leïla Bekhti and Adèle Exarchopoulos posed for the first lookbooks, before the Tchikiboum made its appearance on Emily Ratajkowski, Jill Kortleve, or Mica Argañaraz.

The label's name is drawn from Marcia Baïla by Les Rita Mitsouko, and that 1980s French scene Emma associates with a free, subversive femininity. Today, the jerseys are made in ECONYL, a regenerated nylon, and manufactured in France.

Taste

Marcia · Emma Reynaud · Marcia Baïla · Les Rita Mitsouko · Tchikiboum · No knickers · Sans culotte · Second skin · Side cut-outs · Décolleté sur les hanches · French sexy · Paris after dark

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