A nature-loving little bar, strikingly well put together, in the 11th. Broken-tile flooring, fir-green banquette, ornate mirror.

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Les Œillets is the natural-wine bar in the 11th that didn’t seem necessary, until you walked in. Behind the counter: Maxime Dardeau, formerly of Chambre Noire and Cave de Belleville, and Solal Martin-Grondard, formerly of Yard. A room with something to say: shattered-tile flooring, a fir-green banquette, an ornate mirror. Saucy plates, well-chosen wines, a bar atmosphere with poise. Open Mondays, terrace, from 6 p.m. to midnight. An antidepressant on rue Saint-Maur.

137 rue Saint-Maur, 11e