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“Rob the average man of his life-illusion, and you rob him of his happiness at the exact same stroke.”
Henrik Ibsen, The Wild Duck, 1884, Act V
The Wild Duck? Reserved for empty stomachs and full minds. White dove, ugly duckling—the plumage matters little. Here, you are the main character. If you come by way of MERIQ, here is a food-for-thought exercise for the boldest among you: “Are certain illusions necessary to endure existence?” Are you more of a Relling or a Gregers? Answer at the table.
In the right wing of the Théâtre Antoine, the curtain rises. The debate is served, and so is the cuisine. At the helm is British chef Jack Bosco Baker, born in Leeds in 1994 and practically raised behind the stoves: his father, Jeff Baker, was the city’s very first Michelin-starred chef. Jack left to train in London at 18 before arriving in Paris, where he worked at Jourdain, Magnolia, Robert, and La Vierge. It was at this last spot that he met Raman Suzat and Grégory Back, with whom he would open Le Canard Sauvage.
Jack has said he prefers “to nourish rather than to impress.” Game arrives in season; wild duck is seared skin-down over a small Japanese barbecue, then finished in the oven before a long rest. It might emerge whole with wild mushrooms, roasted corn, and Morteau sausage; elsewhere, a venison pie, lamb, or vegetables also catch the smoke. In the glasses, natural wines are written each evening on the small mirrors behind the bar.
So? What of your illusions? On April 27, 1891, André Antoine directed the French premiere of Henrik Ibsen’s The Wild Duck right here. You will surely find some answers inside. Over the course of more than a century, the bird has glided from the stage to the dining room. Kitchen open until 11:30 PM, drinks until 2:00 AM.
