The switchboard girls have vanished, replaced by the sirens of the dolce vita. At 41 rue de Lille, Gloria Osteria has transformed a 1905 post-office boarding house into a 1970s Italian villa. Inside, Murano-style chandeliers glow, zebra-print carpets unfurl, and vinyl records spin in a private salon. Big Mamma finally crosses the Seine. The Left Bank has found its Italian accent.
7:46 PM. Leaving a talk at Orsay, we were still debating the place of women in art history. We headed to Gloria Osteria, 41 rue de Lille, to continue my conversation with Colette over plates of pasta. With Paroles d'Artistes Femmes (1869-1939) by Editions La Martinière tucked under my arm, the door opened onto a 1970s pleasure palace.
For the backstory…
Before becoming an osteria, the place housed an institution of a completely different kind. Built in 1905, this Art Nouveau building was once the Maison des Dames des PTT, a residence for women working in Posts, Telegraphs, and Telephones. The historic stained glass remains, but golden chandeliers, mirrors, and zebra-print carpets have transformed the atmosphere.
Behind this metamorphosis are Victor Lugger and Tigrane Seydoux, the founders of Big Mamma, crossing the Seine for the first time with a Parisian address more theatrical than their usual trattorias. Studio Kiki evokes the elegance of Gio Ponti, the clean lines of Franco Albini, vintage lighting sourced in Turin, and chandeliers inspired by Murano glassware. At the bar, brown Tuscan marble sets the stage for our debate.
In the kitchen, Roman chef Francesco Fronda takes plates on a journey through Italy, from Puglia mozzarella to Piedmont truffles.
FOOTNOTES
Attend Les Rencontres d'Orsay — At the Musée d’Orsay, artists, writers, and thinkers gather to exchange ideas on art, creation, and contemporary thought. Discover the program here.
Read Paroles d'artistes femmes (1869-1939), published on September 19, 2025, by Éditions de La Martinière, in collaboration with the AWARE association (Archives of Women Artists, Research & Exhibitions)
