Oxblood storefront, crushed-raspberry carpets, crimson restrooms, Alice Tuyet has set up her third address in Michel Rostang’s former Absinthe and has left restraint behind altogether. Three floors, three scenes: Salon Riviera and its parasol-striped ceiling, gloss-currant Boudoir, Suite Noire in the cellar for those who want to privatize the night.
In the kitchen, Erwan Crier keeps the house on a clean line: sauce is 80% of a dish. Lemoned béchamel, white miso, apricot sauce with zaatar oil, every plate coats, clings, falls in love. Spring makes its entrance without breaking the rhythm: radishes (without) butter, raviole à la grenobloise, tomato cassoulet, white chocolate and red-berry cookie.
24 Place du Marché Saint-Honoré, Paris 1st.
